12/25/2009

Weather forecast for the coming week

It will be pretty warm for the first few days, sunny with clouds, and Monday will be the hottest day of 30 degrees. Tuesday is also hot but they predict rain and Wednesday will cool down and will be windy and rainy. Luckily on these two rain days are the shortest walks planned. We walk straight into camp on Wednesday. Unfortunately I had planned a relaxed afternoon in the hammock that afternoon...

More sad news and a solution for the transport problem

Susann can't make it either due to work. What a pity. So we are walking with six instead of seven for the first day. Still too many for one car but there is a solution for the car problem! We drive up with two cars, leave one at the starting point and when getting picked up by Stijn at the end of the walk Helge drives back up and we come down with two cars again.

12/21/2009

Weather forecast for the weekend

We start with half moon and by the end of the trip the moon will be full, that's nice!
Also the weather for the first two days of walking is good, 25-26 degrees in Margaret River is a few degrees less along the coast, say about 23-24 degrees, sunny with a few clouds. Hope it stays like that. Take warm night wear though, as it cools down to 10-12 degrees at night!

Sad news

Sal has hurt her foot, she thought it was broken but it is only severely bruised and as it is her right foot driving long distances will be a problem. And the doctor doesn't think it's a good idea for her to go camping, she needs to give her foot enough rest.

So this leaves us with a TRANSPORT PROBLEM as we won't fit in one car... We are with seven walkers and one chauffeur, so eight in total to be transported.
I know Nathalie is only walking one of the two days she is with us so she might be willing to be a chauffeur for one of the days, this still leaves us with a problem for the other day(s).

Stijn won't be walking as he is surfing and on Sunday afternoon his hockey mate Paul, aka Fimo, comes along to join him.
Helen, Albert, Helge, Sybille, Susann, Nathalie and Wilma will be walking.

We'll have to find a solution for transport...
This tank we saw yesterday along Swanbourne beach during our walk.

Update: We checked the tractor and it is possible to have four people squeezed on the back seat but that still leaves two.
If we empty the car, including the fridge which won't work for as long it's out of the car, and I am not keen to leave it unprotected at the campside, so if we can fit it in one of your cars,(an Engel fridge cost 1300 dollar, even second hand they are still over 1000 dollar so an easy target) we can fit two in the back. I am pretty sure it's illegal and therefore we must realise that if we meet a police car and get fined we are all responsible.

Let me know your ideas or suggestions...

12/20/2009

Our practice walk went well


We did the 23km walk from Bold Park along the beach, as it was the hottest at 8.30-9am in the morning on Sunday according the weather site we were pretty hot by the time we arrived at City Beach, and only after a bit more than 5km we plunged into the cooling ocean!
Walking along the ocean was nice with cooling breeze although hard on the calves and bum because of the soft sand, we all walked barefoot. I was testing a scarf on the back of my cap to avoid sunburn in my neck. At reaching Swanbourne we decided to go further on the footpath, a very simple Santa was taking care of the kids. We had a short lunch in Cottesloe and went further to the river and along the river where the path ended in nothing so we played Indiana Jones by searching for a way through the scrub. Halfway Nathalie and Sybille walked through one of the gardens to the road while Helge and I followed our way through the steep river edge overgrown with bush and wood. Luckily we made it without too many scratches and we only waited for about five minutes before the others came. The rest of the way was via some quiet streets of Claremont and Mt Claremont. It was after three when we were back at Bold Park!

12/19/2009

Cooking

Already decided was that everyone takes care of his/her own breakfast, lunch, snacks and drinks.
And the idea was to cook in turns for the whole group. But not everybody was very keen on this so we've decided that we cook in smaller groups:

- Helge & Sybille are going completely for the dried food for trekkers.
- Sal, Nathalie & Susann are going to share the first few days as Nathalie leaves either on Sunday (27th) afternoon or Monday morning (28th) Susann leaves on Wednesday afternoon (30th) or Thursday morning (31st).
- We cook for the four of us: Helen, Albert, Stijn and Wilma.
Susann is welcome to join us after Nathalie has left and Sal doesn't come anymore.

Overview for Helen and Albert, please let me know if this is alright or if there is anything you really don't like or want to add:

12/14/2009

Practice walk

Click on picture for enlargement

Helge and Sybille suggested a practice walk of 20km for coming weekend in John Forrest NP which is a very good idea. But there is no beach, it's an hours drive, you need a park pass to get in and it might be too hot in the bush, so I thought maybe it's an idea to meet in Bold Park and walk from there to City Beach, along the coast to Cottesloe and from there to the river, along the river to Claremont and via Karakattha back up to Bold Park. This makes a nice roundtrip of about 22-23 km. See map above.

What about if we meet Sunday morning (20 Dec) at 8am in Bold Park fully packed as we would do for the Cape to Cape walk?
At an average of 5km/hour with a few short breaks for a snack we should be finished around 1pm and can have a picnic lunch at Bold Park and go home after that for a nap in the hammock ;)

Let me know what you think about it or prefer to go to John Forrest NP, start earlier or later, etc.

Link to map of Bold Park (we follow Zamia trail)

I've added an alternative of 18km along the beach and river:

Sight seeing along the way

At Canal Rocks, in Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park , the granitic rocks which jut out into the ocean are separated by a series of canals that have been hollowed out by the sea, we might, with a bit of luck, see humpback and southern right whales. And for sure we will spot some see dolphins along the track.

One of the loveliest spots to visit is the historic homestead at Ellensbrook, which is managed by the National Trust. A walktrail leads to a cave and the delightful Meekadarabee Falls, known to Aboriginal people as the "bathing place of the Moon", which is at its best in winter and spring.

In the right weather conditions there are some enjoyable and safe places to snorkel, such as at Prevelly and Gnarabup. Scattered along this coast are sheltered bays suitable for launching small boats, such as Kilcarnup, Cowaramup Bay and Prevelly. Tracks to the more isolated surfing and fishing spots on the coast are often suitable only for four-wheel-drive, because of the rough limestone that protrudes from the road surfaces.

Boranup Karri Forest, within the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, lies between Caves Road and the coast, and creates a powerful contrast with the rest of the coastline. Tall pale-barked karri trees, reaching 60 metres or more high, dominate the hilly slopes and valleys. The Boranup Forest, as you see it today, is about 100 years old. It is a regrowth forest.

Good news

When and where are generators permitted?
Generators can generally be used at campsites in Western Australia’s national parks, conservation parks and State forests between 8am and 9pm.

But! Cape Leeuwin NP campings, under which Contos and Boranup, are GENERATOR FREE!!!!

I just called DEC to ask about fire bans and barbeques in Contos.
The lady told me there would be fire bans in summer but there are gas barbeques available on Contos which we can use.

I told her that last year we could make fires over Christmas in Boranup, then we had rain, so it depends on the weather probably. If it's hot and dry we are not allowed.
I was a bit worried how to cook on a small camping stove for ten people... As we don't have that big pots who even fit on the camping stove, so we have to use smaller pots and probably a few stoves. So if we can use the gas barbeques for meat and veggies and only need to cook pasta or rice on the stove that will be ideal.

12/11/2009

The people

From left to right:
Helge, Susann, Stijn, Sybille, Wilma, Nathalie, Sally.

Helen and Albert are still in The Netherlands but soon on their way down under. (photo made in Sweden)

We had a chat about the plans and this is a summary of it:

Thursday 24 December: Helge and Sybille are leaving Perth and going slowly down south.
Friday 25 December: Stijn and Wilma pick up Helen and Albert from the airport early in the morning.
After lunch we leave with two cars from our place: Stijn, Wilma, Helen, Albert in our car and Nathalie and Susann in Nathalies car.
We meet Helge and Sybille on Contos campsite. Fimo might also be there or he is at his parents place in Augusta.
Saturday 26 December: start walking; Helen, Albert, Helge, Sybille, Nathalie, Susann, Wilma. 20.5km from Dunsborough Light house to Wyadup Road where we get picked up by 2 cars (Stijn, not sure if it fits us all...)
Sally is arriving at Contos sometime today.
Sunday 27 December: Walk 26km from Wyadup road to North Point in Grace town. Fimo comes by today.
Monday 28 December: Walk 20km from Grace Town to Wallcliffe road
Nathalie leaves today.
Tuesday 29 December: Walk 18km from Wallcliffe road to Contos Campground, no pick up!
Wednesday 30 December: Walk 22.5km from campground to Hamelin jetty.
Thursday 31 December: Walk 26.5km from Hamelin Jetty to Cape Leeuwin Ligh house. BBQ at Fimo's family?
Susann leaves today and Sally is maybe joining her.
Friday 1 January: Everyone goes his/her way.

Camping gear: Everyone takes his own stuff and otherwise organises something with someone else. We will take chairs for Helen and Albert.
We also have the 40-liter fridge for milk and meat and a two point gas cooker.

Water: We are with four cars and every car takes enough water for drinking back-up. We take two 25 litre tanks if it fits in.

Food: Everyone takes care of their own breakfast and lunch and drinks. But we eat dinner together. Every 'couple' cooks one night for the group.

Suggestion for cooking: This is open for discussion!
25 Dec: sandwiches... ?
26 Dec: Stijn and Wilma
27 Dec: Susann and Nathalie
28 Dec: Helge and Sybille
29 Dec: Sally and Fimo(?)
30 Dec: Helen and Albert
31 Dec: CELEBRATION!

We also need to organise something for gas for the drop off and pick-up cars.

Suggestion for 6 days walk:

12/06/2009

Preparation meeting

When: Friday 11 December after work
Where: Cottesloe, north of the Indian teahouse on the grassy bit out of the wind.
What: Bring a nibble and a drink and we have a chat about our trip while watching the sun go down.
You might even want to bring your bathers for a dip in the ocean as they predict 32 degrees for Friday!
How: Be prepared on what you want to do and what not during the trip.

I’ll be there between 5.30 and 6pm so hope you can make it also before the sun sets.

11/27/2009

What to bring on the hike

What you definitely need to take hiking:
- Minimum of 2L water
- Sunscreen 30+
- Hat/cap with flap to protect neck or a scarf
- Sun glasses
- Fly net for those who hate the flys ;)
- Clothes in layers so you can peel of/on preferably light cotton
- Take something for all weather types, although it's summer it can be cold and rainy.
- Easy walking shoes (I am planning to walk bare feet on the beach parts)
- Towel and bathing suit for a swim to cool of during breaks
- Lunch pack/snacks
- Something to carry your stuff, either a backpack or on your hips (what I prefer)
- Medicine box (bandaids, aspirine, insect repellent, aftersun)
- I have a insect/snake bite extractor set which I will bring
- Compass
- Map of the route for that day
- Mobile phone if you have reach in the area (and GPS, Helge ;)
- Camera
- And a very good mood

Base camp at Contos?

The closeness of the forest to the coast has provided for one of the most well set up National Park campgrounds in Australia, at Conto Fields. Conto's is also one of the most beautiful beaches in the area, named by a local fisherman after a brand of wine which they used to drink in the 1950s. The fishermen built a shack on the isolated beach, which is now surrounded by vast quantities of empty bottles and flagons - testimony to many nights spent fortified against the cold by their favourite drop.
Conto's Beach and its surrounding bays are part of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park and were originally part of a pastoral lease held by one of the founders of the area, A.P. Bussell. The lease changed hands a number of times - in the 1920s it was used as a pony stud. In the 1950s the paddock was cleared to graze cattle. The stock was walked a few kilometres around the cliff to be watered at a spring on the beach.

Each campsite in Conto's Field has a firepit, tabel setting, grass sites and shade.
The government purchased the land in the early 1970s and added the paddock to the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Near the entrance of the park is the magnificent Lake Cave - one of the original tourist caves in the area. The cave is home to some amazing formations that are suspended over large pools, which trickle through a maze of passages to emerge on Conto's Beach. This freshwater spring makes Conto's unique - it flows out onto the sand, icy cold and filtered clean by the limestone it passes through. A swim in the ocean and a quick splash in the spring is an invigorating way to start the day.

Until a few years ago the only access to the beach was either the 4WD track or a long walk around the cliff. The Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM) put a major road through to Conto's and the bays further south. At the time the decision to put the road through caused quite a lot of controversy but the decision was prompted by a number of drownings in the area. Decent access was required if any rescues were necessary. CALM has since provided some excellent camping facilities just a few kilometres from the beach. Sites are cleared, secluded areas surrounded by bush and all have fireplaces and picnic tables. Some of the sites are perfect for a couple or family, while others cater for large groups. Jarrah millends are provided for fires and bush toilets are available.
Camping kitchen and even caravans and campers find their way in.

During the winter of 2000, CALM did major work on improving the sites and adding some new circuits and more campsites. there is now more than enough room to find a bit of privacy at all but the busiest of times. Campers can either stay at Conto Field camping area which has many comfortable spots, or at a few limited sites in the magnificent Boranup Karri Forest. Tracks pass through the forest and into low woodlands of peppermint, banksia and jarrah. The tracks emerge in coastal scrubland, which supports communities of animals including kangaroos and goannas, then continue onto the coastal bays and beaches. If you stay in the forest you will be overwhelmed by the local possums - a rare experience in WA.

Visitors to Conto's or Boranup should bring their own water or collect it from the spring on the beach, (it is a long walk back to the campsite with a heavy water container so don't overdo it). There is a rainwater tank at the main camping area and it usually has enough water but supplies are limited. Rangers collect a minimal camping fee and supplies can be obtained at Margaret River or Witchcliffe. You can also get great lunches and limited supplies from the cafe/kiosk at Lake Cave. Many of the Margaret River vineyards are close by and most of them serve an excellent lunch.

Camping fee: Per adult/per night $7
There are no showers, I originally thought they had, but we'll take the plastic shower bag :)
More info on DEC (Department of Environment and Conservation) website

A few of our videos while caming in the area



Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park - History

The Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park is located on the south-west coast of Western Australia, 261km from Perth. The park lies in the Aboriginal land of the Wardandi (people of Warden, the ocean spirit). The wardandi are one of the fourteen Nyungar tribes that live in the South-West.

Their land extends from the coast at Stratham to the sea at Augusta. The park stretches for 120km, from Bunker Bay in the north to Augusta in the south. Cape Naturaliste is the northern most point in the park. The first noted Europeans to have sighted the area were the Dutch, in 1622. They named the southwestern tip "t Landt van de Leeuwin" meaning the land of the lioness.

It was later explored by Matthew Flinders , in 1801, who renamed it Cape Leeuwin with respect to the Dutch who had first sighted the rocky headland.The area became a popular place for whalers and sealers to collect fresh water and to seek protection from the storms that whipped up off the southern ocean.

However the area was officially settled by Europeans in 1830 after the establishment of the Swan River Colony. New settlers who had arrived in Fremantle on the ship "Warrior" on 12th of March, 1830, were hoping to take up land near the Swan River Colony but, Lieutenant-Governor James Stirling, knowing that all of the fertile land had already been taken up, persuaded the settlers to move south, to an area near Cape Leeuwin.

Captain Molloy, a small military detachment and about thirty settlers headed south and arrived in an area near the Blackwood River . Among the new settlers from the "Warrior" were Captain John Molloy and his wife Georgiana and John, Charles, Vernon & Alfred Bussell (who all became influential in the development of other areas in the south-west).

The site was named, Augusta, by James Stirling in May 1830, in honour of Princess Augusta Sophia, the second daughter of King George III and Queen Charlotte.

With very few of the settlers having a history or background in agriculture, it didn't take long before they discovered how hard life was on the harsh landscape.
Supplies from Perth came infrequent and small relief was found through the Whalers (predominantly American), who came ashore to collect fresh water and trade with the settlers. The settlers would exchange potatoes, meat and vegetables for much needed oil (for lighting), molasses and tobacco. However, even with the whaler trade, many settlers found the isolation and harshness of the area too much and they left Augusta including the Bussells and Malloys.

The settlers that stayed, used the local Aboringines to help clear the local hardwood timber and assist with crops and with the introduction of convicts to Western Australia in 1850, many convicts were given tickets-of-leave and sent to Augusta help the settlers cut timber (Jarrah & Karri ).

The banks of the Blackwood River were used to house convicts & guards and where timbers were pitsawn before they were loaded onto rafts and floated down to the mouth of the river (as Jarrah does not float).It would, however, be another twenty years before Augusta would flourish, due to the timber industry and a man named Maurice Coleman Davies. M.C. Davies established sawmills at Coodardup, Karridale, Boranup and Jarrahdene in the late 1870's and almost singlehandedly create a market and efficient industry for Karri and Jarrah hardwoods which was highlighted in the Paris Exhibition in 1878.

By the 1880's the timber industry was booming and mills, jetties, towns and a railway were built to cope with the demand for Western Australian hardwoods. Timber became Western Australia's second largest export, behind wool. By the early 1900's the demand for Karri and Jarrah from the area had declined and the last mill was closed in 1913.

After the first World War many returned soldiers took up dairy farms in the area. Augusta is now a popular holiday resort, with among its attractions being the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and waterwheel, Jewel Cave, Boranup Forest and whale watching tours it also boasts pristine beaches, great fishing and friendly pelicans.

In 1957 the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park was established from crown land along the Leeuwin-Naturalist ridge and is managed by the Department of Conservation and Land Management.

Info from Margaret River Vista and google images.

10/06/2009

Cape to Cape guided tour

Join Environmental Encounters on this 8 day, small group expedition on the Cape to Cape Track in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park.
More information here.

9/30/2009

Weather in Margaret River

Summer can arrive slowly and in cool years it's not really good beach and swimming weather until around Christmas.
The average December day hovers around a maximum 25C, but evenings can be chilly, down around 12C.
There is a rule among locals that it's best to have a jumper in the car at all times.
January and February are the hottest months with the highest temperatures up toward the 40C mark, but seldom higher.
You can expect only five days in January and February to be over 35C, and about 16 when the maximum exceeds 30C.

Often characterised as 'Mediterranean' (especially in tourism circles), the climate of Margaret River passes through four distinct seasons.
One of the cooler parts of the state (given its southerly latitude and exposure to the winds of the Indian Ocean), summer conditions are nowhere near as ferocious as they are further north.
Between December and February, average daily temperatures range between 27C and 29C. Hot northeasterlies from the centre of the continent can also make this the windiest time of the year.


Note:
Margaret River lays a bit more inland, we are close to the coast so it will be cooler there.

Pajda's tips

My good friend Pajda did the Cape to Cape walk three years ago, by himself, on the same time of the year; Christmas.
I asked him a few tips:

Hi Wilma!
Good to hear from you!
So, you are going to the big trip! Sound great. All I have to say about this trip is the timing! Well Xmass is the hottest times to walk on sand, but as you know it's possible to do it. Take few liters of waters with you and some good shade as there is nowhere to hide :-(
You can see my pictures here
if you have more questions please contact me :-)
from Pajda


After I've asked Pajda about the flies he answered this:

Sounds like you organised it all pretty well! Should be nice with all that support you have. Flies, hmm I'm not sure now, there was more flies in the outback I think as at the sea front it's quite windy. The hats with flap for sure. Take less to carry with you as the walk on sand is quite...you know 10km stretch of beach ;-) I'm not sure what you imagine to sleep under, but I just had a sleeping bag and slept on plastic sheet - hard but light to carry ;-) Btw. there is a bus going from Augusta to Dunsborough quite often.
good luck with that


Pajda is a great furniture designer, have a look at his website!

9/29/2009

Participants

I've invited everyone who is interested to join us for the walk over Christmas this year. By accepting the invitation you become a participant of this Blog and therefor can add information and post stuff what might be valuable to share but it has to do with the trip!
There are a few people interested in walking one or two days with us as they have Christmas commitments with the family, I would say, the more the merrier so please join!
For the core group, there might be a few who are not into roughing it and like to stay in hostels or rent a caravan in one of the main campgrounds, that's all possible. As long as we know how, when and what we are doing.

I suggest that we can put here some information on who is participating and to give the good example (as one sheep is in the rest will follow) I will start:

INTRODUCTION

My name is Wilma and I love to camp in the bush, I love nature and what is better than combining a workout in nature with your best friends? A few years ago Pajda, a student friend, did the Cape to Cape walk over Christmas and had good stories so when Helen mentioned that she liked to do something together with us during their trip to Australia I suggested the walk and there it started. I mentioned it to some local friends with whom I regularly walk and they got interested as well. I am a good organiser and to get everyone else organised as well I started this blog. So with a bit of luck we have a great trip down south at the end of the year!

Who is next?

Base camp or backpacking?

The total of maps 1-4 is 34 km and that includes Meelup Trail. Without Meelup Trail it's 20.5km and should be enough for the first day.
Plans are still in the making, one of the plans is that we are going to set up a base camp, probably in Boranup forest or maybe at Conto's as people might want to have a shower after a long day of walking. Boranup bush camp has only a toilet.
It depends on how many people are joining us as we need to have a few people providing transport to the start and finish of every track. Stijn is going to stay at the camp and fill his days with surfing and transporting us. Fymo might join him for a few days as well as Sal is on the list of being in and around the base camp as well.
Or we can move camp every day which is not sure yet as we don't know if every camp is reachable by car and migth involve a lot of logistics.
Another idea is to take all the stuff in a backpack and camp along the track in the provided camp spots. This requiers a sweaty backpack including dried and ligthweight food and carrying a lot of water.
We migth do a combination of all, but so far a base camp is my favorite. I like to hear your ideas?

PS, the two guys on the top left photo are Ben and Jake who I know from the outdoor club and they have done the trip in 2008 (check link in the side) but also have some nice pictures here.