26 December DAY 1
We arrived yesterday afternoon and went to bed early so this morning we were up at 5am to start the first day of our walk! The idea was to leave within half an hour...
Boy, did we know anything about timing! It took us 1.5 hour to get into the car! And today was the longest drive all the way up north at the starting point of this track. Almost an hour drive. We drive with two cars to fit all seven of us and start at the light house near Dunsborough where the first part of the track is even available for wheel chairs! Stijn walks the first kilometer with us before he goes back to spend his
time at the beach looking for the right waves. Eveyone is wearing a flynet except me, I hate these things, they look rediculous, like a bunch of bee-keepers on a day out! This year seemed to be an extreme bad year for flies but my Aussie wave worked well enoughe except when I swallowed one... We, Helge, Sybille, Helen, Albert, me and Nathalie who is only with us for one day, sign in at the start and enjoy the first hours of coolnes. Later I have to put on my long sleeve blouse to protect me from the sun.
In Yallingup we meet Stijn again, sitting on the beach. We have lunch and jump into the ocean as it's a warm day, and have a little nap at the beach trying to dry our sweaty wet clothes in the wind. Albert has stomach problems and decides to stop and go for a drink in Yallingup with Stijn. Nathalie is immediately in for that too, as she is only here for a few days, so we go further with the four of us. The good thing is that they first go to collect the other car so we don't have to do that afterwards. We walk the full 20 kilometers, a beautifull diverse track with paths through dunes, over rocks, even a paddock and a part on the beach at Smith beach. Because it's difficult to estimate when we would reach the end point we are early, only a little bit, and at 3pm the cars came in to pick us up. The walking is alright, a long part we walk behind each other like over kangaroo paths, other parts we can walk together and have a chat. If we drive back to the campsite at Contos we stopped at a few wineries but they are all closed because of boxing day...
On the camping Stijn cooks his famous couscous and Nathalie and Albert help him. So Helen and I are relaxing with a wine and some taco chips next to us.
The weather is beautiful, the sun peers through the high trees next to our tents, its about 25 degrees. We are looking amazed at how good Helge and Sybille are organised, all their stuff is from high quality and flatpacked. They eat the mountain food they've bought at the outdoor shop and only need to add hot water. I am happy we have everything fresh from as I am not really keen on processed food. After dinner everyone is getting tired, Helen and Albert are the first to leave for the tent, Nathalie sleeps in our front tent and by 9pm everything is quiet.
27 December DAY 2
We'd decided to start again at 5am and try to get a bit faster then yesterday. That worked... only 15 minutes, haha. Nathalie slept in, so we were only with six today and that just worked with the Nissan Patrol, have 4 people sqeezed in the back seats. We started where we ended yesterday, at Wyadup Road. It's still quite a distance to drive from the campground.
Today we have to do 26km and we were looking forward to it. They all laughed at my bright red surf trousers I had bought at Good Sammy's especially for the occasion as it dries quickly, but the red hat made it look a bit too perky. We walked over dune tracks with beautiful views over the ocean which we of course had to enjoy regularly. Because Albert was still feeling weak we had asked Stijn to meet us at Moses Rock
a well known surfspot, just in case. We had lunch there and Albert decided to stop so he could drive to Margaret River with Stijn to find a pharmacy and some medicines. We had a good lunch on the bench overlooking the ocean and there were even toilets provided. After a good rest we went further, with the four of us again.
The landscape was very diverse, at the stretch over the beach we took a dip in the clear water, Helen is even skinny dipping in the wild waves while Helge, Sybille and me are going for the quiet pool behind the rocks. The path goes further along the beach with a lot of big pebbles and rocks, through the dunes where our legs got cut open by the razorlike leaves of a scrub which we would find almost everywhere along this track. Paths of dried grass, springs who are just in the middle of nowhere with a lot of green around it and higher trees.
And just when you don't expect to see anything man made is there a huge expensive stainless steel stairs build with a bench so inviting we had to sit on it and got an extra stop to eat some dried nuts!
If everything gets pretty rocky we reach Gracetown North Point where Stijn and Albert are coming towards us for the last kilometer. The little rope I'd secured around my right shoe is gone, and in the mean while I've lost my whole sole and also discover a big hole in my left shoe. Bugger, I love my hiking boots, and now I can't walk on them anymore, so we decide to hurry to Margaret River to buy new shoes, at least we hope a shop will be open. And I am lucky, within ten minutes before closing I buy a pair of runners at Country Target for $ 28 while the shopgirls are already waiting to close the door, arms folded in front of them. The runners are bright white with purple edges, but I can walk tomorrow! When we reach the campground Paul, Stijn's hockey mate is already there, his parents live in Augusta so he is visiting for a night. We enjoy a barbeque and after dark we even spot some wildlife like the rare
Brush-tailed Phascogale and a brigth green tree frog. Everyone is back in the tent by nine again except the guys, they drink another beer.
28 December DAY 3
We are getting better, up at five and it's six we get the guys out, Paul slept in his car. Nathalie is leaving today, back to Holland for a year, so we say goodbye. Helen and Albert are staying at the campsite today, Albert's stomach is still a problem and Helen is staying with him. Paul is driving behind us to Gracetown were he and Stijn wanted to surf, unfortunately there was no surf this morning.
When we arrive at North Point the colours are beautiful by the sunrise. Only the three of us this morning are following
the coast from here. The flies are very aware of us this morning, see the picture of my face. It's a beautiful track today, we dive in the ocean near a little stream so we can rinse ourselves after the dip.
Only a little bit further is Ellenbrook homestead where it's beautiful green because of the waterfalls and spring. We have lunch there on a proper picnic table along the river in the shaduw of the trees.
It's so nice there that we stay quite a while to enjoy the scenery. One of the waterfalls isn't running, not enough water, the walk along this part is beautiful as is the little campsite for walkers with backpacks. A bit later we are back in dune scrub and after that on the beach again. Another dip in the ocean and before we know we pass the Margaret River who is divided by a big stretch of beach from the ocean.
Only a bit further at Surfers Point we meet Stijn at exactly 3pm! Paul already left and we all have a shower at the abulations block on the beach there. Washing ourselfs in our bathers, it feels so fresh to rinse the dried sweat of your skin.
We even wash our hair and it's funny to see that all four of us are using
Lush solid shampo bars. (that's the only shampoo used in our home for years)
Back at the campground Stijn, Helen and Albert are cooking the pasta with fieldmushrooms and feta. I can rest with my feet up. The new shoes are o.k. but my left ankle is a bit sore. Look how their tent is lighting up like a christmas tree in the dark.
29 December DAY 4
Today we are with four again, we leave from the campsite and walk north so Stijn and Albert can sleep in and they pick us up
later at Surfers Point so everyone can have a shower again. Unfortunately we had to take our rain coats as they've predicted rain today. Clouds are covering the sky faster and
faster and before we know we have the first drops. A kangaroo hops one meter from us through the scrub in the dunes and only a bit later Sybille cuts her left toe at a slippery rock on the beach. Poor thing, her right foot is covered in blisters, carefully packed in special bandaids and now her left toe is sore too. They have a very well equiped first aid case and I am a bit ashamed of the 3 bandaids and a couple of parasetamols I have in
my hipbag... But I also have the insect/snake bite extractor! The landscapes are very diverse again, from scrubby
dunes to rocky beaches followed by sandy beaches and paths between high trees, waterfalls, rocks and even a burned part where we meet a very skinny monitor and a few bobtails.
We also have to climb a very steep hill just after Boodjidup river where luckily someone has made steps for a big part. This river we missed before on the beach, so we walked at least 3km extra over lose beach sand!
Stijn and Albert come to pick us up at 3pm and all six of us have a shower at Surfers Point. Feeling all fresh and clean we decide to
stop at a winerey before we go back to our camp and we enjoy a few tastes. The alcohol is coming in hard after a day of walking so we don't drink much.
In the mean time Stijn and Helge drive to Margaret River for some shoppigns while we are relaxing at the winery. The sun showed a bit through the clouds this afternoon and back on the campsite Helen and I are allowed to relax again with our feet high up.
I've got some fresh ice around my ankle and Sybille has some soothing sport gel. In the mean time Stijn and Albert are cooking a delicious chili con carne. Helge and Sybille are probably sorry by now as they are still eating the ready to eat food packs. Good for when you are on a deserted mountain top but they wanted to have it easy, only boil water. Stijn is growing his beard, he's a bit shocked to discover so many white hairs in it... I hate it, after this trip back home he has to shave it! Helge's beard isn't growing that fast and Albert is shaving every other day with some hot water in the 'camping kitchen' which is a good place, there are two benches with water to do dishes and there are two spots to cook with gas barbeques under the one roof. And there is a huge rainwater supply. Also today it's off to bed early.
30 December DAY 5
Today we started again at the campsite, this time in our normal direction, to the south! Albert is feeling fit again and Stijn is looking forward to a day at Boranup Beach where we normally spend our Christmas, one of the most beautiful beaches in the area.
Unfortunately the weather is not really nice today.We leave with rain coats in the pack but don't need them although it's grey and cloudy and pretty humid. The walk is beautiful amongst the highest trees of Leeuwin National Park, the paths are wide and there are many 4WD tracks but not much in use and therefore easy to navigate.
There is heaps of moss so that's why it's that green here, it suppose to be wet here! And again we miss a signpost and make a d-tour of a few extra kilometers. Walking out of the woods into the dunes finally we reach Boranup Beach and even with the grey sky it's beautiful bluegreen color is stunning. We walk headwinds along the beach to the point where we meet Stijn who is all huddled up in the little beach tent. There are no good surf waves and the wind is sandblasting him so he isn't in a very good mood. I feel a bit sorry for him, as so far he has hardly surfed and only have been the chauffeur, camping cook and waiting for us... by himself, and he doesn't like to be by himself too much. So I decided to skip the last five kilometers over the beach to Hamelin jetty as I've done that a few times before back and fort! So I help Stijn getting the stuff up the dune to the car and we take the 4WD track back to Cave Road.
My ankle is a bit sore and is happy to relax in the car. We plan to have a drink somewhere but the only place we pass is closed so we drive direct to Hamelin Bay jetty where we already see them coming, within ten minutes we are all back at the car and it's not yet 1.30pm! Back at the campsite I find a place for the hammock and take a nap while everyone is having an afternoon off doing his/her thing. Until it starts to rain a bit, than we get close together under the tent and Stijn and I are cooking a pasta with salmon and the last of the wine is pressed out of the 4 liter casket and the beers are finished as well. The weather is a bit unreliable so everyone is asleep before nine.
31 December DAY 6
Our last day and we are keen to go. 26km and Albert is really feeling well today. Stijn brings us to Hamelin Jetty and was in a good mood as he was meeting Paul again for a surf. The weather will be clearing this morning and they hope for good waves. They only took the bodyboard out... In the mean time we are enjoying the track, first along the beach with the most fabolous rock creations and blow holes, I love those rocks!
Some rocks have deep holes with the sea under it, others are sharp edges and look like they are build up in discs. We leave with a grey cloudy sky which changes over into cute sheeplike clouds in the mornign and within no time there is only bright blue sky above us. The book is warning us for a difficult 8 kilometers on the beach but we are lucky as it isn't more difficult than any other part of the track.
I love to climb over the rocks and although I feel my ankle when going down I ignore it, when you are walking you don't notice the pain, only when standing still, so keep walking!
The beach is beautiful, clear water, green/bleu color and white sand. We see different kind of seagulls and we alse have met several eagles along our track, sailing with wide spread wings above us. I love the beaches with the big boulders and rocks,
they are much more exiting than the white sandy beaches. There is always something to see and find, shells, beautiful seaweeds, creepy crawlers, huge waves hitting the rocks are shaping little pools of clear water
with a little world of their own. Every pool looks like a swimming pool to me, but we don't swim today. Finally we walk through the dunes and see the light house south of Augusta, our endpoint.
But it's still far away and we still need to cover a fair distance through the dunes with lose sand and also scrubby dunes with a track as wide for only a rabbit to access.
And again we miss a signpost as they are not always strategicly placed. The light house takes a while to appear closer, 135 kilometers...
And suddenly after we've navigated an overgrown path we come at the registration station and we sign off. But we are not there yet, the light house is still at least 2 or 3 kilometers further. A little bit further when we've reached the rock formations we'll see Stijn coming towards us. He makes a few photos of us with the lighthouse on the back and from here he is carrying my hip bag! The last bit is also beautiful with little springs and cavelike rock formations with small waterfalls. Stijn makes the last photo in front of the light house where the car is parked. We've made it!
We drive to Blackwood River beach near Augusta on the Southern Ocean, leaving the Indian Ocean behind us. Here is where we put our hot feet in the cool water and have a final shower.
When we are all clean and relaxing on the lawn smearing sunscreen, Paul comes by, he has found a place were we can buy fish for the barbeque tonight.
We buy some champagne and a bit later we are enjoying a juicy shark steak with a cold glass of champgane. Sybille wants to stay awake until 12 o clock but none of us want to join her as we are all pretty tired so by ten it's quiet in our camp while we hear the other campers partying. I wake up from a lot of noice, they ar counting, Happy New Year I wishper in my dreams.
1 Januari - 2010
The next morning we sleep in, it's after six when I wake up being the first one out of the tent. But only a bit later everyone is awake. We start breaking up camp while Helen is mixing the pancake dough and I cut the fruit.
A few hours later and we are ready for our delicious New Years champagne breakfast! We say goodbye to Helge and Sybille and drive to Busselton to drop Helen and Albert at
Abbey Beach Resort, a luxuary hotel complex
where they stay one night to pick up a rental car tomorrow and leave fro Esperance while we are driving back home. We stop only for diesel and to eat a sandwich as we are keen to rescue the cats from the laundry and get the chooks out of the pen to room around the garden. The neighbour has taken good care of them as well as for the plants in the garden. It has been another hot Christmas in Perth. We quickly unpack so Stijn can go for quick windsurf session at Dutchies.
By turning the fourth day around we could use these very handy outdoor showers at Surfers Point twice! At the third day when we arrived at Surfers Point for our pick up we discovered them and it was great to wash all the sand from our hair and body. We were decently dressed in our bathing suits but nevertheless got some onlookers being suprised to see us wash ourself so vigoreously. At Contos campground we have a bush toilet and a camping kitchen with barbeques with a rainwatertank but no facilities to shower. So we decided to walk the fourth day from Contos to Surfers Point instead of the other way around so we could shower again!
